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Old 06-21-2009, 03:14 AM
myhyundaiforums myhyundaiforums is offline
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Default Sonata 2.4L Timing Belt Complete Step by Step

The timing belt that i used was $50 dayco from Pepboys. The removed Hyundai timing belt was made by bando. The new balance belt was $22 goodyear from kragen/oriley (Pepboys was out it would have been a $20 dayco). The removed Hyundai balance belt was made by Gates(powergrip). The dealership in Pasadena wanted $515 for the job and that include all belts (both timing and 2 accessory belts).

1.(optional) Spray out the passenger side front wheel well so that all the brake dust is removed. Make sure everything is dry before continuing.
2.Put the car on a jack stand(1) and take off the right front (passenger side front) wheel (don't forget wheel chocks and the parking brake).
3.Remove 2 sets of splash covers on the passenger side.
4.Loosen Crankshaft pulley bolt - 22mm impact socket + breaker bar + long pipe braced against the ground. Click Engine for 0.5 seconds and the bolt should break free (or use and impact wrench).
5.Support the engine by the oil pan using 2 wood blocks and a floor jack.
6.Remove engine mount on the passenger side. Pop power steering reservoir up and use a 17mm impact socket and breaker bar to loosen the right (radiator) bolt holding the engine mount (after breaking free the bolt you can use a regular socket wrench to turn the bolt out). Remove that bolt. Use the 17mm socket + breaker bar + pipe to remove the 3 bolts attaching the engine mount to the engine.
7.Remove the bolt securing the power steering line (so you get a little more room).
8.Raise the engine till the water pump pulley bolts are accessible by a socket wrench and then loosen those 4 x 10mm bolts (at this time the belts should still be on which will help hold the pulley from turning).
9.Remove the power steering belt (turn the screw holding the belt tensioner closest to the radiator counter clockwise) and alternator belt (loosen the side bolt holding the slide on the alternator).
10.Remove the Upper timing cover.
11.On the crankshaft pulley remove the 4 x 12mm bolts and take off the crankshaft pulley. (an impact wrench really helps for these 4 bolts but you have to use a regular deep socket because the impact sockets are too thick)
12.Remove the lower timing cover (jack the engine up and down to make accessing the bolts easier).
13.Rotate the crank shaft clockwise to set the timing marks. Intake cam, exhaust cam, left balance shaft, right balance shaft/oil pump, and crankshaft sensing blade. 5 sets of timing marks in total.
14.Use a permanent marker and mark a few timing spots onto the timing belt. This is for reference just in case you need to put this belt back on the exact same spot. I used the 2 cam shaft timing marks and an arbitrary place on the crankshaft. This technique is also helpful when installing the new timing belt by transferring the marks on the old belt to the new belt.
15.Unbolt the auto tensioner (2) screws. Be careful when this thing releases the tension on the timing belt just about every cam/sprocket will turn.
16.Check the auto tensioner it should have a 14.5mm extension (top of the housing to the top of the plunger). If not it probably needs to be replaced.
17.To reuse a the auto tensioner get a 100mm (minimum) clamp and slowly compress the plunger. When it is fully compressed put a pin into the hole.
18.Remove the crankshaft sprocket.
19.Pop off the crankshaft position sensor (2 screws) and move it out of the way.
20.Pop off the crankshaft sensing blade to get to the balance belt.
21.Loosen the balance belt tensioner and remove the balance belt.
22.Install the new balance belt.
23.Put back on the balance belt tensioner. The side with the lip and the protruding center should face out. On my car the bolt looked like it was at about 4 o'clock when the tensioner was put back on.
24.Put back on the crankshaft sensing blade and the crankshaft position sensor.
25.Put back on the crankshaft sprocket.
26.Install the new timing belt. Do your best to line up the timing marks. For this step it helps to move the intake cam forward a few(1-2) teeth and have someone hold the exhaust cam with a wrench. That way then the auto tensioner is put in the slack rolls the intake cam into it's proper position.
27.Install the auto tensioner with the pin still in.
28.Once all the timing marks are verified you can pull the pin in the auto tensioner.
29.Reassemble.

Please Let me know if i have missed a step or a tip so that I can update the instructions. My goal is to give any newbie the required instructions to do this job themselves.

Last edited by myhyundaiforums; 06-21-2009 at 03:29 AM.
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  #2  
Old 06-21-2009, 03:46 AM
myhyundaiforums myhyundaiforums is offline
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Additional Notes.
Pepboys: PowerSteering Belt $10 dayco with a 1yr warranty. $24 - 3yr warranty.
AC/Waterpump belt $10 dayco with a 1yr warranty. $15 - 3yr.
Idller/Tensioner 3pc pack $90.

Kragen: Timing belt - $62 gates. $68 beck-arnley.
Balance belt $28 beck arnley.
PowerSteering $25 goodyear. $21 gates.
AC/Waterpump belt $19 gates.
Auto Tensioner: $94 beck-arnley. $43 gates.

Hyundai (pasadena parts dept.)
Timing Belt: $113
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Old 06-21-2009, 04:00 AM
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Thank you very much for that great step by step Tbelt instructions! Only thing I would like to add is the The small pulley/oil pump pulley this must be lined up right or you will have a vibration in engine! Two ways to do this, Remove plug in side of block insert screw driver with pully lined up with mark, if you can push screw driver in its right, if you cant its hits the shaft its not right, rotate pulley 360 the screw driver should go in now! Or the easiest way to do this is, When you rotate the pulley you will feel the counter weight, If the pulley wants to naturaly line up with the marks its right, If the pulley falls away from the marks its 360 out! This sould like its hard to do but once your there you will see its not that bad!

Again! Thank you!
Looks like we got ourselves some more good people here!!! :tea:
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Old 12-31-2010, 09:29 PM
accent 03 accent 03 is offline
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Thanks for your post. I wasn't quite sure where to jack the engine. I was hesitant to just start jacking anywhere because of the weight. I didn't know if the oil pan would crack.
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Old 01-01-2011, 01:27 AM
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2.4 align instructions (pieced with actual Hyundai TSB pics)...



Verify the following timing marks are aligned (refer to photos below):
  • Camshaft sprockets (intake 1, 2; exhaust 3, 4)
  • Balance shaft (5, 6) and oil pump sprocket/balance shaft (7, 8)
  • Crankshaft (9, 10)


Here is where the fella went wrong --

Read carefully :

Set the oil pump sprocket so that timing marks #7 and #8 are aligned. Quickly rotate the sprocket back and forth, between the 9 and 12 oclock position feeling for a centering feel when the timing marks meet.

If the sprocket timing mark feels like it wants to move away from the other mark, rotate the sprocket one complete revolution and try it again.

Timing marks #7 and #8 will naturally align when the balance shaft is in the proper orientation.



Here the finished product (this one lost the balance belt, took out the rotor and crank postioin sensor),,, aint it pretty ??
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Old 01-01-2011, 03:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by accent 03 View Post
Thanks for your post. I wasn't quite sure where to jack the engine. I was hesitant to just start jacking anywhere because of the weight. I didn't know if the oil pan would crack.
Always take a very close look at the oil pan before jacking the engine up. Sometimes with older cars with steel oil pans they will develop rust on the pan an will weaken the pan. If you see rust do not jack it up unless your ready to buy a oil pan. Also to be sure to use a small piece of wood between the oil pan an the jack. If you don't its possible to damage the oil pan an push it up into the oil strainer causing low or no oil pressure.
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  #7  
Old 11-03-2011, 05:28 AM
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Default thanks for the halp and hopefully someone can answer my questions

great posts on the procedure and thanks alot to the person who added the photos of the timing marks. two questions, is this deffinately an interference engine and if so has anyone ever gotten lucky and not bent any valves? ???? the balance shaft belt went and caused the crankshaft reluctor ring to get bent and damaged. ultimately leading to the timing belt getting destroyed while also wiping out the crankshaft position sensor. does anyone know the part number to the reluctor ring since i know it will be dealer or junkyard only??? any advice is appreciated...
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Old 11-03-2011, 05:29 AM
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one more question, by chance does anyone know what the book time is on the timing/balance shaft and water pump job is. just curious, gotta love the snowbelt rust these cars accumulate///
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  #9  
Old 11-05-2011, 05:20 PM
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Mitchell has balance shaft belt at 3hr.. timing belt comes off 1st, goe on after balance belt.

Mitchell has 3.5hr for water pump.. been a long time since I seen 1 of these...

Be advised that water pump gasket not sold seperate by Hyundai, you have to buy a front engine case gasket for silly money, then nip the water pump portion off to get what you need.. expensive and retarded.. but that how they do it.

Be minor over lapping time.. so 4hr labor charges might be in order.. if you going that far for water pump and coolant, you may as well finish off your cooling system overhaul with new thermostat and hoses, start fresh..
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Old 11-07-2011, 01:10 AM
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thanks for the response, ended up not doing the water pump since it is low mileage and no freeplay/not enough money. my buddy is well aware that if it starts to leak in the future he will have to have me tear it back apart again to shange the water pump
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